My journey to The Arctic began when I received an email from Lindblad Expeditions about the addition of an expedition to Svalbard for April 2022 aboard The National Geographic Resolution.
The email stated this was going to be an exciting new adventure since the Arctic season doesn’t normally begin until later in the Spring. It went on to explain how The Resolution has the highest ice class rating (PC5, Category A), a specially engineered X-bow, and a high-tech bridge, that makes exploring The Arctic under the iciest conditions possible. Since I traveled to Antarctica in January aboard The Resolution, I knew this was all true and I needed to see The Arctic before the season started. I contacted Lindblad immediately to make a reservation.
Once I confirmed my cabin on The Resolution, I got started on my pre-cruise plans. I was to meet the staff from Lindblad in Oslo, Norway on April 19th, so I added, subtracted, multiplied and did some calculus to figure out the how much time I needed in Norway beforehand. I booked my flight and was all set to depart New York on April 13, 2022. I got busy making lists: clothing, gear, shoes, unusual tourist attractions, train, hotels, etc. It was going to be colder in Svalbard than it was in Antarctica and I’d have to account for Spring temperatures in Norway, so packing would be a challenge. I sorted out my accommodations, booked train tickets, purchased a tour boat ticket and read copious amounts of travel guides in preparation for my journey to Norway and The Arctic. Things were falling into place and I was thrilled.
April 13, 2022, I boarded Delta 0046 to Amsterdam, where I changed to a KLM flight to Oslo. Once we deplaned in Norway, I collected my bags and figured out which VY train ($10) I needed to take to get into Oslo - by asking other people who were lost. I arrived in City Center in about 20 minutes and I decided that using my undeniably horrible navigational skills was the best way for me to get to the Hotel Bristol ($170/night). With a knapsack filled with camera equipment on my back and two rolling suitcases ( a Trader Joe’s shopping bag filled with snacks and travel supplies haphazardly hanging from one) in tow, I plodded over cobblestones and bricks, up and down curbs, and across tram rails to Kristian IVs Gate 7. Luckily, the walk wasn’t too long (about 1/4 mile) and the Hotel Bristol was as I expected - old and charming. At the front desk, I was greeted with what became my favorite Norwegian greeting, “Hi. Hi.”, was given a key and shown to my room. (Fun fact: since Hotel Bristol opened in 1920, it has not once been closed, even during WWII.) I had a burst of energy and looked forward to meeting my friend, David, within the hour. After a quick hello, David and I roamed around Oslo and saw everything from the Changing of the Guard at the Palace to foreign Embassies to the most exclusive neighborhood in the city. We trekked a million miles (a total of 22,582 steps for the day), all while David gave me tidbits of Norwegian history and culture, including why Oslo was so quiet during Easter Week. We stopped for something quick to eat and chatted about our families and jobs. After a gazillion and one miles, I grew weary and had to call it quits, plus, David had to get back home. He dropped me back at the hotel, I gave him some swag and we snapped a quick photo for posterity. A few days later, David left an envelope with a couple of patches at the hotel for me, which was so kind considering all he’d already done. David was a fantastic tour guide (I’d give him 5 stars without question) and I hope we have the chance to meet again - maybe in New York. I was now on my own until the April 19th.
The next day, the weather was perfect, which made the ferry ride to The Fram Museum ($14) a pleasure. From the moment I read that this museum held Fram, the actual three-masted schooner Roald Amundsen sailed to Antarctica on over 100 years ago (1910-1912), I was giddy and couldn’t stop talking about it. I felt like a child waiting for Christmas, so when the moment finally arrived for me to put my foot down on the Fram’s deck, an extraordinary feeling came over me and I couldn’t stop smiling. It was surreal - two worlds, a century apart, had collided on a wooded ship. I could’ve left Oslo immediately following this experience but there was a lot more to see and do. Unfortunately, I slept a little too long and had to get a covid test, so I only had thirty minutes to check out The Kon Tiki Museum ($14). I missed visiting the Viking Museum because it closed early - it’s being renovated now and isn’t scheduled to reopen until 2025 - so that was a bummer. But all was well because I walked the entire length of Fram and I got to see the Kon Tiki, which I’d read about in high school. I hopped on a bus going in the wrong direction and, once it righted itself, I exited at a random bus stop and meandered around Oslo the rest of the day. (Tip for Oslo – get an Oslo Pass for $44, $65 or $80 which is good for public transportation, most museums and some other discounts www.visitoslo.com)
The next day, I packed my bags and took a long train ride to Flam ($230 rt Oslo to Myrdal). Along the way, I met the most intriguing 8 year old child in Norway, Donny, who “worked” at the Myrdal train station with his dad and could rattle off interesting facts about the Titanic without skipping a beat. I gave him some swag and when I asked if he would take a picture with me, he replied “Yes. Don’t forget me.” Who could forget those dimples? Donny ended up taking the trip to Flam and back (about $70 rt) with his mom’s friend who was a conductor. We took more pictures along the way and when I returned to Oslo, I got to see him again when I changed trains in Myrdal.
While in Flam, I rested my head at the haunted Freitheim Hotel ($100/night). My room was lovely but I was disappointed I didn’t meet any of it’s ghostly residents during my 2 night stay. On Easter Sunday, I took a 2+ hour Heritage RIM boat tour on Fjord Safari Norway ($93) around Aurlandsfjorden. They provided us with all the gear we needed to stay warm and dry as we cruised around the fjord. Our captain searched for and found three orca splashing around, pointed out different species of birds and took us by several villages, all while discussing Norwegian history and folklore. It was a great way to see the shores of Norway. Once we landed back at the dock, I decided to hike up to Rjoandefossen, a waterfall that overlooks Flam. It was pretty steep with rock steps but the scenic vistas were worth the climb. As I walked back to the Freitheim, I passed some cute, furry cows and spotted a farm with tiny sheep bouncing around. I stopped in my tracks and decided I needed to see these babies up close. I trespassed my way up to the barn and introduced myself to the owner who told me the lamb directly in front of us, whose umbilical cord was still attached, had been born about 45 minutes earlier. I was in awe and couldn’t take my eyes off of her and her proud mom. He allowed me to hang around and take pictures of what appeared to be a sheep maternity ward. I was hoping to witness one of the other ewe’s give birth but, alas, it didn’t happen. Regardless, visiting this farm was one of those wonderful and unexpected experiences that one can only hope for when traveling.
I returned to Oslo the following afternoon for my second stay at Hotel Bristol. For dinner, I took David’s advice and walked to Sumo where I enjoyed the freshest salmon sushi I’ve ever had. I was free the next day, so I went to the Akershus Fortress and slowly made my way through the Norway’s Resistance Museum ($10). I also visited the stables and snapped some hysterical pictures of its equine residents. I did some clothes shopping at GlasMagasinet and strolled around Oslo. I love people watching, so when I came across a group dancing salsa and merengue by the Opera House, I stopped and took some more pictures. I wanted to join them but I had my backpack to worry about - and, oh I forgot, I’m not a ballroom dancer. In the evening, Lindblad had a welcome dinner at the hotel, where I met my shipmates and we learned we’d be leaving the hotel before the crack of dawn to catch our flight to Svalbard.
On Wednesday, April 20, 2022, we were up and on the buses by 5:00am but there was plenty of room on the plane to stretch out to finish dreaming. When we arrived in Svalbard, we were hit with a refreshing Arctic blast and snow began to fall while we toured Longyearbyen on coach buses. Our guide pointed out the outdoor kennels where the sled dogs live, various landmarks and coal mines and brought us to Camp Barentz, where we sipped a warm black current tea as we listened to a lecture about polar bears. Yes, polar bears are a real threat, so it’s not uncommon to see residents armed with flare guns and rifles. The rifles are used as a last resort when non-lethal means are not working to stop a bear from killing a person. After lunch, we were able to do a little shopping in town before embarking on our Arctic adventure aboard The Resolution.
The first day was grand as we sailed down scenic Krossfjorden towards 14th of July Glacier. It was a gorgeous day - perfect for an outdoor BBQ. Afterwards, we went out in zodiacs and observed two walruses resting atop slabs of ice. It was cold but there was little wind and no precipitation, so we didn’t mind searching for more wildlife. The next day, we spent a lot of time cruising the northern coasts of Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet searching for polar bears who had recently awoken from hibernating and would be hunting for food. We spotted a mother and two cubs but they were quite a distance away. Much to our dismay, they didn’t move closer to us because momma seemed to be waiting for a seal to pop out from under the ice so she could provide a meal for her family.
On April 23, 2022, we broke through the 80th parallel and at 81 degrees north, we were in the Arctic Ocean. It wasn’t the grand experience we had in Antarctica when we reached the Antarctic Circle but it’s just as cool - and I have a patch to prove it! That evening, Mother Nature provided “sea smoke” for us to admire as we dined.
Sunday was packed full of adventure and animals as we cruised Bellsund and VanKeulenfjorden. We started off our day with a hike (always with armed security teams who kept vigilant eyes out for polar bears) across the frozen tundra. We trudged towards a herd of Svalbard Reindeer who soon moved closer and circled around us a few times, allowing us to witness and photograph their beauty and grace. It was brilliant! In the afternoon, we went kayaking in perfectly calm that, as happens in the Arctic, completely flipped 180 degrees. The wind kicked up ferociously and the water became so rough that some folks had to be towed back to the ship. My kayak-mate, who is also from NY, and I decided we weren’t going to let heavy winds, bumpy water and frozen sea-spray prevent us from getting back to the ship under our own power, so we dug in and fought like rabid raccoons until we finally reached the ropes and pulled ourselves in. Okay, I’ll admit that when we got out of the kayak, we were exhausted and coated, like chicken cutlets, with ice but we were proud of ourselves. Sadly , just before the change in tides, my waterproof camera, with its little yellow lifejacket, jumped out of the kayak and into the icy drink, never to be seen by me again. I didn’t take a lot of pictures but it still sucked. My hope is that one day, many years from now (if not decades), some northern explorer will find it, access the photos and see Peter Penguin in a kayak with two blue parka bundled women in the middle of the ice-covered water. Our day wasn’t over by a long shot because as we cruised further into the fjord a polar bear was spotted way out ahead of us. As we inched closer, we could see this blood-soaked polar bear had recently caught a seal and was meticulously picking it apart to eat only the fat. All the while, an arctic fox and a flock of Glaucous gulls waited for their turn at the frozen table. It was quite grizzly but no-one wanted to stop observing this rare brush with nature.
Our expedition to the Land of the Midnight Sun was slowly ending as we explored Hornsund Fjord and looked for wildlife. The captain was able to park us on the fast ice at Samarinbreen Glacier and allowed us to step outside The Resolution, where we hiked a bit and and goofed around a lot. It was thrilling to walk on ocean ice and made more memorable when the bar staff began serving hot and spiked beverages outdoors. The next day, while I stayed snuggled up in my bed, a group of brave souls bundled up to hike on Recherchebreen glacier in -18 C temperatures (0 F), which was the perfect way to end a journey to the Arctic.
While discussing my travels with friends, I’m often asked if I prefer the north over the south and I always reply that they cannot be compared to one another. Although the landscape of The Arctic doesn’t have the “wow” factor that Antarctica has, it offers an opportunity to witness nature’s other wonders - like seeing the thousands upon thousands of migrating black-legged kittiwakes nesting along the cliffs, giggling at carefree polar bear cubs frolicking in the snow while their mamma hunts for dinner, getting close enough to hear the impact of walruses and seals clumsily throwing themselves onto ice beds and the slight splash they make as they gracefully slip back into the water or encountering reindeer playfully galloping close enough to feel the ground reverberate. So both is my answer. Go see both, you won’t be disappointed!!
